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Sorry for the delays! Our clutch kit is built around stock sized 1.8 clutch components, so any 1.8 disc should work with our flywheel and pressure plate - with that being said, I'm afraid we don't have one to recommend. If you're comfortable with waiting for ours to restock, you can sign up to be notified when they come back by clicking the "Notify when available" button on the product listing.

We've found it's best to not keep track of the dollar amount 😆

@@FlyinMiataVideo especially when u test the turbo on track… the Mrs is watching… & it goes up in flames on the main straight!!! 👊💥🤣💰

As much as we'd love to have titanium exhausts, it's very unlikely we'll release one for cost reasons.

You want to make sure the surface the hub stands are sitting on are level. Squares of linoleum make good shims if you have to raise a corner to make everything level. The stands themselves are not adjustable for height, because that introduces error.

It'll pull forward as you tighten the nut if it's not fully seated. Just pushing the wheel on should be enough.

@@FlyinMiataVideo Thanks for the response....the steering wheel appeared to be about 1/4 not all the way seated, once I tightened the nut to 36 FPs it seemed to flush nicely. Thanks again....!

@@kavalere You are welcome and we're glad to hear you got the wheel pulled on all the way!

@@FlyinMiataVideo So the wheel is is a couple degrees off center. I used the blue tape to line things up, but it's definitely off center. I've seen some other posts that an alignment might be necessary, but I would thing I need to reset it to center? Thoughts?

@samanthajohnson-doel5194 It will be easier for us to assist you with this if you can contact our Support Team directly - you can email them at support@flyinmiata.com, or call in at 970 464 5600. We look forward to hearing from you!

@DarkDMD Incoming airflow will eventually outflow the airflow the cooling fans can pull, yes! However the speed at which this occurs will vary depending on the car, fan/shroud design, bumper style, etc. This is why our Airflow kits have those little rubber flaps in the shroud; when incoming air has enough velocity, it will force those flaps to open.

Should be right around 8 pounds shipped. Take off a couple tenths for the packing material, so actual installed weight is around 7ish pounds.

Congratulations! Feel free to chat with us if you ever have any questions.

We have heaps of people that come from your neck of the woods. Checkout the San Diego Miata club to see if you can tag along!

For the NAs and NBs, you will need to drill and tap the hood hinges to mount one of the ball studs. For a competent shop, this should be a 45 minute - hour install.

The NA portion of the video starts around 15:15

If you have everything apart and the cooling system drained, you may as well replace other maintenance items like your thermostat and radiator cap.

Ordered already. Also thermostat switch to fan. Thanks for your videos and effort. You are a blessing for the miata community All over the World.

@@tjarkworthmann105 Thank you for the kind words - we really appreciate you watching our videos!

Thanks for watching!

We like to see temps stay below the 230 degrees F (110 C) mark to avoid damage, however the stock gauge doesn't start moving until about 240 degrees F (114 C). Sealing your fan to the radiator is always a good idea. You might also try a higher distilled water to coolant ratio, since water dissipates heat better than anti-freeze coolant. We generally stick with a 70/30 mixture, which should have freeze protection down to about 0 degrees F.

I forgot to add , it’s also a manual transmission

@@austinpatten1765 Yeah, that should be fine.

Ultimately, yes: The 2006-2008 "NC1" Miatas are still great, reliable cars. Our main best guesses for the lower prices are: 1. They're simply older cars 2. The aesthetics aren't as popular as the later versions 3. The engines on all NC1 Miatas didn't come with forged internals, which means a lower red line and potentially slightly less reliable if you're planning on throwing gobs of boost at it (although, if you keep this conservative, even the NC1 engines should be fine.) If you see an NC1 for a good price and in otherwise good shape, I say go for it.

Thanks. I’m kind of cross shopping the NC1 and an NB. NB is really fun. I am in the minority but think I like the front fascia of the NC1 over the NC2-but it’s splitting hairs. Both are great. The Miata really is a car where there isn’t a bad looking one. I’m hoping as we enter September I may find a great deal. Thanks so much for your input.

@@treeskier802 You are welcome! Beauty is in the eye of the beholder - if you don't mind the looks of the NC1s, you'll likely have an easier time finding a deal on an NC than an NB.

The big spal fans have caused me all kinds of problems trying to tune around the massive voltage drop when they kick in, but it's not the cross flow rad, it's an electrical issue. I really wish FM would address this issue, maybe a two step fan controller or something?

All of our fan kits will pull more amps than the stock fans at some point. Our Stage 2 brushless fan kit has a soft start feature to reduce the initial shock (pun intended) on the electrical stuff. On an otherwise good condition stock charging system, good battery, and proper installation per our instructions, your NA or NB Miata should handle this fine. @joejoepop It sounds like something else may be going on. Please contact our customer support department for some troubleshooting tips.

It will work the same way, but you may want to run a softer (or no) sway bar for that sort of track. It's a little outside our area of expertise!

We're not sure. You might look at doing something custom if you're set on the quad exhaust on your car and you don't want to pay overseas shipping.

We sure do! Some countries have some exceptions though and the order has to be over $200 or so. If you put the items you want in your shopping cart, move to the shipping page and we should give you a shipping quote for them.

All that being said, I don't track the car, and I don't tow anything with it, so have never had a need for more cooling. When the radiator does fail, I will look into the options then, but 31 years now with zero issues with the radiator. The color of the plastic is still a nice black, no signs of leakage.

That's impressive! Again, it's good to replace it on your schedule, instead of it's schedule. Color changing tanks are the first sign to look for.

@@FlyinMiataVideo Yep, updated my comment as the color of the plastic is a nice black still, and no signs of leakage on it.

You'll want the BOV piped to the intake piping and before the TB.

Yes the bov before the tb. What about the IACV. Should I plumb it before or after the bov.

@@mizunor3296 We might be misunderstanding your question. The Idle valve on the Miata is either attached to or a part of the throttle body, depending on what year you're working with. Are you talking about your boost reference line?

@@FlyinMiataVideo normally the IACV is attached to the intake manifold and the hose to pre TB. My question is, that hose pre TB, should it be before or after the BOV inline.

@@mizunor3296 Thanks for clarifying. The placement of the BOV in relation to your IACV doesn't matter.

You can run a 180 degree thermostat and still have a functioning heater in the winter but I wouldn't go any cooler than that. First off, I'd check the basics like how dirty is the radiator core, and make sure you have your splash pan on. Shoot us an email if you want more details.

Our DEI insulation kit and DEI shield are both excellent options to remedy this issue: flyinmiata.com/products/dei-titanium-heat-shield?_pos=1&_sid=4125fdaa5&_ss=r flyinmiata.com/products/dei-na-nb-insulation-kit?_pos=2&_sid=4125fdaa5&_ss=r

Agreed! Even better with V8 power.

To answer your first question, having LED lights in the two rear fender assembles won't cause an issue but if you replace the third brake light with an LED it will. So, that's when you'd need to run a resistor-type LED in the third brake light. Keep in mind, I'm always referencing parts that we sell so, results might be different with brand X. For your second question, you'll need to reference a wiring diagram or just find the wires that go to the parking light circuit and splice into them. You should be able to find a 194 bulb base to fit the corner lights at your local auto parts store.

Of course not! The trailers have to come in from the south east. It’s not exactly a straight road, but it’s better.

As long as you bring a disguise 😉

Depends on what you do. There is a cost for the track days and another if you want to partake in the meals. If you just want to hang out and talk and look at stuff, no charge!

Yes, it was $79 this year before options. The base cost covers the food also. Keep checking FM's website starting in Feb/Mar 2025 for info on the 2025 event.

@@romad357 2025 dates have been released! June 11-15.

We appreciate the kind words! Yes, the turbo will still be compatible with a 5-speed.

That would mean a lot to us!

Glad it helped. Thanks for the info!